Llanafan Fawr is a small, rural village situated 9 kilometres north west of Builth Wells, on the west side of the river Chwefri. According to Clwyd Powys Archaeological Trust, the earliest reference to the settlement is as Llanauan Vaur between 1198 and 1214, and around 1200 there was mention of Sancti Avani quae Britannice Lanavan.  

Although Llanafan Fawr now consists of ‘little more than the church, a farm, an inn and a couple of houses,’ it has a long history, particularly in religious matters. It is documented as an early monastic site. The church (NPRN 423010) was traditionally founded by St. Afan, who is believed to have been a bishop at Llanbadarn Fawr (in what is now Ceredigion) in the 7th century, though it has also been claimed that Afan was murdered near hear which could have established a link. Several associated features that might have originated in early times have been recorded around the settlement, including Ffynnon Afan and Derwen Afan. More tenuously, two local place-names, Gwern-y-Mynach and Lle’r Prior, might also attest this monastic past.’ There may also have been two holy wells at Llanafan Fawr – Ffynnon Afan (mentioned by Edward Llhuyd in 1699) and Ffynnon Duw. ‘The site of one of these appears to survive as a small marshy hollow to the south of Brynafan.’ 

‘Llanafan Fawr does not appear to be recorded as a clas church in later documentary sources but is nevertheless a strong candidate. It has a large circular churchyard sometimes associated with such sites, and was certainly the mother church for a number of smaller churches and chapels on the surrounding area. St. Afan’s tomb lies in the churchyard at Llanafan Fawr, and the ecclesiastical centre, for a time, may have become an important local centre for pilgrimage.’ 

There are several notable sites in and around the village. Lle’r Prior (NPRN 305018) is a circular, level, enclosed area, 24.,5m in diameter, bounded by a ditch, 5.0m wide and 1.0-1.3m deep, which is encircled by a bank, 5.0m wide. There are no interruptions to the circuit. The name translates as ‘the Prior’s Place,’ although a medieval, domestic interpretation seems unlikely. The site’s association with the church at Llanafanfawr might indicate some ritual function. There is evidence that Lle’r Prior was ‘used by the local community for games and events including cock-fighting into the early 20th century.’ 

The oldest surviving building in the village, apart from the church, is the Red Lion Inn (NPRN 25753). Indeed, when the tithe survey was conducted in the mid nineteenth century, ‘it was the only dwelling accompanying the church.’ Originally known as Llanafan Fawr Farm, the building was converted into an inn in the early nineteenth century. According to Cadw, the house is a cruck-framed half-timbered hall-house, dating from the late fifteenth to early sixteenth century, although ‘almost all of the original framing has been replaced with stone, possibly in the 17th century when the loft was inserted and a gable fireplace added.’ The Red Lion Inn remains open as a public house in the twenty first century.  

Source: CADW, Coflein and Clwyd Powys Archaeological Trust report, PRN 2567, accessed from the Historic Wales website. 

RCAHMW, 15th April 2020