Ystumtuen is a remote hamlet, accessible only ‘via single-track roads over the high moorland to the north.’ The topography of the area ‘consists of an undulating and craggy block of land sandwiched between the steep-sided valley of the Rheidol to the south and east, and high, open moorland to the north. Heights vary from 270m above sea level at the area’s southern limits to almost 400m in the north.’ The landscape surrounding Ystumtuen is very distinct, and has clear boundaries defining it from its neighbours. ‘To the south and east is the heavily wooded valley of the Rheidol. Unenclosed moorland lies to the north, and more fertile, less undulating and craggy land to the west.’
In the Medieval period the area surrounding Ystumtuen ‘lay between Strata Florida Abbey’s grange of Cwmystwyth and Cwm-hir’s Nantyrarian grange.’ Later, it became part of the Nanteos estate. In 1690 a document lists the farms of Pantgwyn Issa, Pantgwyn Ycha, Penygareg, Plwcca Bydr, Penrhiwgam, Tir y Castell and Nantgoredyn as all belonging to Nanteos in Ystumtuen.’ Lewis Morris’ 1744 map records lead mines and about twelve small farms in the area, and notes that enclosed land and unenclosed land is separated by a ‘Mountain Hedge.’ Later estate maps dating to the late 18th and early 19th century provide greater detail than the Lewis Morris map. ‘Farms are small and consist of one or two small paddocks or fields around a farmstead, set in a large enclosure or unenclosed land – it is not clear which from the maps – on the fringes of the sheep-walk. Some farms such as Lluestwen have no enclosed land and simply lie within moorland.’ Like Morris’ maps, the estate maps record lead mining activity in the area. Mine working had begun around Ystumtuen since at lest the early 18th century, on sites such as Ystumtuen (NPRN 33909), Tynyfron, Penrhiw, Bwlch-Gwyn and Llwynteifi. By the time the tithe survey was produced ‘further settlements had developed; some of these were on the fringes of marginal land and were undoubtedly squatter settlements. Throughout the first half of the 19th century the population continued to grow in conjunction with an increase in lead mining. A loosely nucleated hamlet – Ystumtuen – developed with a Methodist chapel (NPRN 7215), school and several dispersed cottages.’
‘Local stone is the traditional building material with north Wales slate used for the roofs. Walls are either cement rendered or left bare on houses, and always bare on traditional farm buildings. There is a mixture of agricultural holding and industrial housing. Older houses almost all date to the mid-to-late nineteenth century. They are relatively small, of two storeys and in the typical Georgian vernacular style. On farms this consists of gable end chimneys, a central front door, and two windows either side of the door and one above. Industrial houses are smaller. Vernacular traits such as low eaves, small windows and one chimney larger than the other are present on most house. Stone-built outbuildings are generally confined to one or two small ranges, with some attached and in-line to the house. Working farms have small ranges of modern steel and concrete agricultural buildings. There are several modern houses and bungalows in the area, and some of the older houses have been extensively modernised and extended.’
Although the area is no longer dominated by the lead mining industry, its remains are ever-present. ‘Spoil heaps are the most obvious reminder of the industry, but old stone buildings comprise a distinct and important component of the historic landscape. The mine buildings are beginning to deteriorate.’ The decline of the lead mining industry around Ystumtuen at the turn of the twentieth century resulted in depopulation from the area. There were 60 houses occupied in the area in 1907, but by 1988 ‘36 houses were in occupation, of which 12 were holiday homes.’
Source: Dyfed Archaeological Trust report, PRN 114114, accessed from Historic Wales website.
RCAHMW, 1st April 2020